Impulse Item

Can you believe I just bought these? Man, I hope they fit.

Meet me in Santa Fe!

I'll be taking a trip to Santa Fe to attend the Southwest Design Conference (and to see some local sights) this June 22-27, 2005.

J.B. Hill Boot Company along with bootmakers, Lisa Sorrell and William Shanor will be exhibiting their work ...and no doubt taking orders. I'm looking forward to the fashion show and evening lectures.

Santa Fe is a "hot spot" for vintage boots, so who knows what I'll find!?

Show me you care.

I'm launching a fundraising drive to help cover my web page expenses. If you see a value to my custom bootmaker list, if you like "kickin' it around" on the bulletin board, or enjoy what I have to say on this weblog...there are a couple of ways you can let me know.

You can use Amazon's Honor System to give as little as $2 (or as much as $50) with a single click. Amazon.com won't tell me your name or the size of your gift ...unless you use the button on the Thank You page to "send info".

I've also opened an online souvenir stand where you can now buy my Vintage Cowboy Boot Mousepad. (Hey! I know everybody here could use a mousepad.) A portion of each sale will return to me and help pay my expenses.

Thanks for your time and consideration.

Destination: New York City, USA

Unfortunately, many international travelers visiting the United States hope to find a pair of cowboy boots wherever they land. Visitors should know that there are not nearly as many western wear stores and custom bootshops on the Eastern U.S. as there are in other parts of the country. And while you may be able to find a pair of boots in the airport gift shop in El Paso...this doesn't hold true for other destinations. (See my custom bootmaker list for shop locations.)

If you are headed to the East Coast, I recommend you visit New York City. There are two shops that take custom orders for cowboy boots, and both sell ready-made pairs in stock sizes that you can wear out right out of the store. Each of these shops have a variety of "sample" boots...which provide you with a good idea of what your boots will look like when your custom order is finished. Even though your boots might be purchased in New York, they will likely be made in Texas.

Buffalo Chips Boot Company (...read more.)
426 Washington St. (TriBeCa) ...near Vestry St.
(Subway Stops 1, 9 to Franklin St.)
New York, NY 10013
(212) 965-0300
Visit: http://www.buffalochipsbootcompany.net

Billy Martin’s
220 E 60th St
New York, NY 10022
(212) 308-7272
Visit: http://www.billymartin.com (Billy Martins offers a "private label" boot with custom style options. They will take your measurements and fit you with the best fitting stock size. They do not offer a custom-fit boot.)

Custom Fit Cowboy Boots

If you would like the opportunity to meet your bootmaker (and get additional fitting and style choices)... I would recommend you travel about 2 hours away to visit Wild Bill's Boots.

Wild Bill’s Boots
Bill Niemczyk, Bootmaker
20 Lakeside Drive
Granby, CT 06035
(860) 844-8440
Wild Bill was one of the select bootmakers featured in Tyler Beard's book, The Art of the Boot; pages 116-117.

Also, about 4 hours from NYC in Massachusetts, you can see Jim Covington's work.

Jim Covington Bootmaker
418 Parker Street
Gardner, MA 01440
(978) 632-1869
Visit: http://www.jimmielukecovington.com
Mr. Covington runs a one man shop. Originally located in Colorado.

Custom shops often ship out to their customers as soon as they are done. I recommend making an appointment, often bootmakers will hold any finished boots for a day if they know you are coming.

(See my other tips on visiting a custom bootmaker.)

Enjoy your trip!

Bootmakers in the News— Alberta Boot Co.

Reading The New York Times article, Foraging: Shopping for Boots in Calgary is somewhat of a tease...the article features Alberta Boot Company, mentions its 12,000 boots in stock...even courtesy tours of the factory, but alas...no pictures online! (Access to this article is free, but you must register a username.)

You just might want to pay visit to www.AlbertaBoot.com instead.

Parts of a Cowboy Boot

One of the treasures found at Falconhead.com (a.k.a. custom bootmaker, Tres Outlaws) is the page dedicated to custom design choices.

Learn the "anatomy of a cowboy boot"...both plain or fancy. Toe styles, heel styles, collars and scallops are all photographed here, not drawn, which helps build confidence (and excitement) for any first-time buyer.

Cowboy boot toe styles come in differing degrees of "pointy," "round" or "box" (meaning "square")...then toes are further described with words like "narrow" or "wide." Personally, I'm fond of 3/4 inch wide box toe...but my next pair is gonna be as pointy as they come!

WARNING: The letter given to different toe styles (for instance "x", "h", or "j") varies among bootshops.

If you aren't sure what toe or heel style you want, discuss the options with your bootmaker, he or she can help you make design choices that compliment one another. Custom boots aren't only supposed to fit your feet, but your personality too...have some fun!

Roper Cowboy Boots

Folks who are new to cowboy boots are often confused by the label "roper." What is a roper cowboy boot? How is it any different from a "regular" cowboy boot?

A "roper" is a low-heeled, almost flat-heeled cowboy boot. Most often it has a rounded toe...and usually shorter top height, maybe ten inches or so. Ropers are usually plain work boots, with very little stitching. Pull straps or pull holes are often their only decoration.

Justin was the boot company to give the roper its name, and the first boot company to mass produce the roper boot. Legend has it that up until the early 1950's many of the rodeo calf-ropers were wearing baseball caps and tennis shoes in the arena. "The cap wouldn't get in the way of the rope and the tennis shoes allowed them to jump off the horse and run real fast to catch the calf and throw and tie it in the fastest time possible."

But, the Rodeo Cowboys Association didn't think it was good for the "rodeo image" for their cowboys to be running around in tennis shoes. So they made a new rule that all contestants had to wear proper "cowboy attire" which included a western hat and cowboy boots." (Source: Standard of the West: The Justin Story)

John Justin Sr. was approached by some old-time calf-ropers who wanted something different in their cowboy boots. After some trial and error, Justin adapted a Wellington boot pattern to fit their company's flat-heeled 9315 military-style last (originally used to make boots for the ROTC cadet officers at Texas A&M University.)

The roper has remained an inexpensive and popular work boot. Justin still makes several different ropers today...one with a traditional leather sole, and some others with new "performance materials" and polyurethane outsoles.

Many custom boot shops build roper-style boots...although rodeo calf-ropers don't make up a big part of their business. (Rodeo guys spend all their money on entry fees and gasoline.)

Thanks to Champion Attitude Boots (El Paso, TX) for use of their photo.

Patience

Where are your custom cowboy boots? You ordered them over a year ago...and they're still three months late?!

First off, I've never met a bootmaker who was behind by just one pair, so please don't take it personally. Every boot shop, is going to have periodic problems with being short handed. I'm afraid this is nothing new, I came across a 1911 quote from Charles Hyer complaining about this very thing. For a one person shop it's often life events like family births, deaths, illnesses...even holidays, or a brief trip out of town can get the orders off schedule . Even slightly bigger shops face these same interruptions, as well as the challenge of replacing skilled workers who want to retire.

The nature of custom work also makes it often difficult to estimate a completion date. Unusual leather colors, and exotic hides are ordered specially for each pair of boot, rarely is it material the bootmaker has on hand. Sometimes these materials are hard to locate and get in the shop. Suppliers are continually changing their stock. Bootmakers are also confronted by new boot designs, materials and hard to fit customers which are difficult to plan for.

All these things can have a cumulative effect, putting a bootmaker months or even a year behind.

A big part of custom bootmaking is the ongoing relationship you build with your bootmaker. Your bootmaker doesn't like being late with your order, anymore than you do. Bootmakers make their living on repeat business.

A few calls to your bootshop (probably not more than once a month) may help keep your order on track, but treat the person on the other end of the phone kindly. This might be a bit metaphysical for you, but I think that part of what makes handmade boots special, is the care and personal energy that goes into making them. I think when the bootmaker is full of good will towards their customer it makes a difference in how the boot fits, looks and wears.

"To lose patience is to lose the battle."--Mahatma Gandhi

Baby's got "Bling"

When I was in Wichita Falls at a well-known western wear store called The Cow Lot, I asked "Bugger" (that's what people call him)...What's popular these days?

He showed me these funny looking "cowgirl boots" with a big lug sole and painted-on ostrich skin. Hmmmmm.

"Sellin' these like crazy. The girls just gotta have 'em."

"Really?" I said...kinda scrunching up my nose. "Why do you think that is?"

"Well..." he said. "I've been wearing boots for 50 years...and sometimes you just want something a little different."

Bugger is a wise man...and he knows his western wear.

I can't say I was a fan of those "FatBaby" boots I saw in Wichita Falls, but that was then, and this is now...and Ariat's come out with something new.

Recently, I saw some Ariat Baby Bucks and I have to admit they were the best looking boots on the shelf...cowgirl-wise. (See more styles)

These boots have got some irony stitched into 'em ...the round toes, rhinestone studs and heart-shaped top pulls show the urban influences of Doc Martens and my pretty pony.

These aren't boot design hand-me-downs. They're new and different, one could say...a little bit country, a little bit rock 'n' roll.

...and it's true, the girls love 'em!

(For those of you who want to see the Ariat Baby Bucks for yourself...step into your nearest Boot Barn.)

Bootmakers in the news— Palace Boot Shop

Palace Boot Shop will be closing it's doors in July 2005 (at least for a year or two.) This Houston Chronicle article has some great photos of this downtown custom bootmaker...just click on the "play" button. (No username or password needed.)

Tips on visiting a custom bootshop

1. Always make an appointment! Many bootmakers have their shops at home. Business hours vary greatly...for good and for bad.

2. Ask if there are photos or cowboy boots in the shop for you to see. When bootmakers know you're coming sometimes they can hold on to a finished pair for a little while before shipping them out. I've been places where the only boots in the shop were the ones on the bootmaker's feet.

3. Don't do too much drinkin' or dancin' the night before your visit. If your feet are unusually swollen it will interfere with your measurments. (This can go for long airplane rides as well.) Most people like afternoon appointments because it's often a "happy medium" for boot fit.

4. Bring your checkbook. Relatively few bootmakers take credit cards. Most often when you buy a pair of custom cowboy boots you'll be asked to pay half the amount at the time of the order, and the rest when your boots are finished.

5. Wear clean socks. Pick a pair similar to the ones you are planning on wearing with your boots. Your foot measurements will be taken with your pant legs pulled up and your socks on.

6. Put the bootmaker's phone number on your cell phone's speed dial ...some bootshops are really "off the beaten path."

7. Be honest with the bootmaker and respectful of their time. In one-person shops all bootmaking stops when you walk in the door. If you are just stopping by to say "howdy" and look at their work—make it a short visit. Bootmakers will gladly take your measurements if you're a serious customer, but staying two hours, getting fitting and planning out a pair of boot that you never order ...just isn't cool.

PHOTO: After 15 years of bootmaking, Brian Thomas has just opened his shop in Abilene, Texas. Better act fast before his waitlist gets too long! Contact Mr. Thomas at B17CREWDOG@aol.com (...or phone 325-672-2344.)

Updated Websites— California Bootmakers

Here are the websites of two California bootmakers.

Each makes custom cowboy boots, but also has expanded their businesses to include other custom items. Valerie Coe has introduced a line of home accessories. Murga Boot Company gives a western flair to motorcycle seats and custom guitars. Rock on!

Adding "character" to your cowboy boots

WARNING!! This posting is not for the faint-o-heart. It may leave some of you custom boot owners feelin' ...well, a little queasy.

Few things are cooler than a pair of well worn cowboy boots...but what about folks who need to look cool by Saturday night?

Not to worry. You've got plenty of options.

1. Go find a vintage cowboy boots with a well worn look you already know and love.
2. Buy a brand new pair that fits you right...then put your boots on the feet of a seven year old, give 'em a box of chalk and tell 'em to go draw on the sidewalk. Anyone feelin' queasy yet? ...there's more.
3. If you want to take matters into your own hands, you can rub a piece of sandpaper along the boots "bumpers"...this includes the top of your boot toes, the boot leather right above the heel, and along the outside of your boot near your little toe. Sometimes you'll find wear marks on the top and inside of your foot (the vamp) if your foot's in a stirrup...or the back of your boot heel if your foot rests on a gas pedal.

Be creative! ...try dance floors, car repair...tell your barista she can keep the lid. It's alright to run your car over your boot tops, but not the foot of your boot. Almost always you'll end up crushing the toe box.

Socks and sweaty feet

Stay away from hi-tech socks when wearing cowboy boots. Just pick a plain ol' sock any top height you like, preferably one with toe seams that don't rub you the wrong way. But don't get too fancy...if God had wanted your feet to be "dry, cool and comfortable" all the time he wouldn't invented things like the great outdoors...or Texas.

There are approximately 250,000 sweat glands on each of your feet...and sweat can be hard on cowboy boots. If your feet sweat too much and too often, the salty perspiration will eventually rot the leather and your boots will fall apart. You'll know you have "sweated-out" your favorite pair, when you see the leather near the ball of your foot start cracking. This is the spot on the vamp leather which both flexes and takes the pressure of your foot when you walk.

Normally I'm a big fan of technology, but I think "wicking fibers" Coolmax® are bad news for cowboy boots. The sweat's gotta go somewhere, right? These new socks wick the sweat off your foot, into the sock...then the next place it goes is right into that ostrich or cow "skin" you are wearing.

There are some things you can do to make your boots last longer. Avoid wearing the same pair of boots two days in a row. Trade-off between a couple pairs. This allows your boots to slowly dry out and your boots will last longer. (Yeah...I know this is common sense, wear your boots half as much and they'll last twice as long...but the thing is they really last more like three times as long.)

And...if your boots are REALLY sweaty when you take 'm off...you can try stuffing them with newspaper. This will help absorb the moisture (as well as any smells.) Avoid using drugstore sprays; they can leave residue on the lining leather and further reduce any breathability of your boots.

Bootmakers in the News— Rocketbuster & Tres Outlaws

The folks at FINELIVING: Found In America paid a visit to El Paso custom bootmakers, Rocketbuster & Tres Outlaws. During their stay, Rob and Emily learned little about the tools of the trade, and got their photo taken with the world's largest pair of cowboy boots. (Made out of genuine leather and thread.)

New Trends in Exotics

There has always been a sort of push-and-pull between trends among custom boots and the "ready to wear" pairs. If people have seen something on the shelf they'll often want it with a custom fit, for instance the past popularity of the round toe, and the unexplainable fondness for the double stitched welt. Conversely, if a boot is popular enough to generate lots of custom orders, you are likely to see it showing up on the retail shelves...a good example of this is ostrich skin boots. Ostrich boots used to be an eye-catching luxury item, but now with inexpensive imports...they are well within reach for most boot wearers.

Ostrich is a good leather for boots. It's soft yet fairly sturdy...makes an ideal dress or everyday boot. One of the benefits of its growing popularity has been the increasing number of color choices. But with such popularity do we still get to call ostrich, an exotic leather?

When I looked up the word "exotic" in the dictionary, it gave two meanings. One was "exotic" meaning non-native, like a plant...the other was "exotic" meaning strangely beautiful or alluring, like an exotic dancer.

I certainly consider ostrich to be "non-native" to a cowboy boot. I would probably say this was true of any leather not indigenous to the cattle drive. What is "native" to a cowboy boot is probably a question that was settled back around 1880.

On the other hand, individual taste will always make the final decision about beauty. One thing I will say about ostrich is that it's lost its edge. Part of what makes a cowboy boot exotic is the What is it? factor. Do you remember when you saw your first ostrich boot...that What is it? moment?

When too many people can identify a leather...or when you see it silk-screened on swapmeet handbags, for many boot wearers it has lost its allure.

Bootmaker Luis Jovel and I agree about some trends we're seeing in exotic boots. Custom boot wearers who are dead set on something exotic are no longer satisfied with ostrich, anteater, or alligator...they want something DIFFERENT. Where will these new critters come from? Are we going to see a return of "novelty" leathers like bullfrog and rattlesnake? How long will it take before these fill up the shelves. Only time will tell.

And what about custom bootmakers? Where are their customers headed next? I predict a booming business for bootmakers offering "re-invented exotics"...new finishes and treatments of existing exotic favorites. New on the scene is shark in new matte finishes...also buffed and/or painted stingray. Each guaranteed to get a proper What is it? response from bystanders.

(NOTE: I saw the painted stingray when I visited Bangkok...sure to appear in the U.S. soon)

Sea turtle and friends...

Is it legal to sell a vintage pair of sea turtle boots? What about a bootmaker making new boots from an old skin that they've held onto for years? Well, the answer is ...it depends.

The international and interstate sale of sea turtle products is illegal. That's why eBay won't allow sellers to post old cowboy boots made from sea turtle hides. Occasionally, I will see a pair placed up for auction as "vintage" or "fake alligator." These boots will often have the glossy shine of alligator leather, but the "tiles" will be smaller and rounder. Some of these eBay sellers might be genuinely confused, and there may be others trying to sneak their boots in under eBay's radar.

The sale of sea turtle boots may be legal, if the buyer and seller are located in the same State (...not interstate, get it?)...AND provided their State's laws allow it. In these cases, both the buyer and seller often need permits. (Contact your State's U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Office for more details.)

There are other exotic hides such as anteater (a.k.a. "pangolin" or "Manis temmincki") which remains legal for sale in the U.S. only if a seller can prove the hides were legally obtained/imported. If you travel wearing exotic boots, you may save yourself some trouble by keeping a copy of your sales receipt tucked in your suitcase...especially if you are transporting more than one pair. Never attempt to enter or return to the U.S. wearing sea turtle boots! (More help with travel & souvenirs)

In California, the list of unlawful species is contained in the California Penal Code: Section 653.o. It reads as follows...

653o. (a) It is unlawful to import into this state for commercial purposes, to possess with intent to sell, or to sell within the state, the dead body, or any part or product thereof, of any alligator, crocodile, polar bear, leopard, ocelot, tiger, cheetah, jaguar, sable antelope, wolf (Canis lupus), zebra, whale, cobra, python, sea turtle, colobus monkey, kangaroo, vicuna, sea otter, free-roaming feral horse, dolphin or porpoise (Delphinidae), Spanish lynx, or elephant.

Any person who violates any provision of this section is guilty of a misdemeanor and shall be subject to a fine of not less than one thousand dollars ($1,000) and not to exceed five thousand dollars ($5,000) or imprisonment in the county jail for not to exceed six months, or both such fine and imprisonment, for each violation. (b) The prohibitions against importation for commercial purposes, possession with intent to sell, and sale of the species listed in this section are severable. A finding of the invalidity of any one or more prohibitions shall not affect the validity of any remaining prohibitions."

NOTE: At the time of this posting, the California State Attorney has chosen not to prosecute bootmakers for selling cowboy boots made with kangaroo hides, if they can prove that the skins were legally imported/obtained.

'Made in China'

As long as there have been cowboy boots, there have been "border boots"...only now our borders are halfway around the world. (No subscription is required to read this Christian Science Monitor article.)