Reading The New York Times article, Foraging: Shopping for Boots in Calgary is somewhat of a tease…the article features Alberta Boot Company, mentions its 12,000 boots in stock…even courtesy tours of the factory, but alas…no pictures online! (Access to this article is free, but you must register a username.)

You just might want to pay visit to www.AlbertaBoot.com instead.

One of the treasures found at Falconhead.com (a.k.a. custom bootmaker, Tres Outlaws) is the page dedicated to custom design choices.

Learn the “anatomy of a cowboy boot”…both plain or fancy. Toe styles, heel styles, collars and scallops are all photographed here, not drawn, which helps build confidence (and excitement) for any first-time buyer.

Cowboy boot toe styles come in differing degrees of “pointy,” “round” or “box” (meaning “square”)…then toes are further described with words like “narrow” or “wide.” Personally, I’m fond of 3/4 inch wide box toe…but my next pair is gonna be as pointy as they come!

WARNING: The letter given to different toe styles (for instance “x”, “h”, or “j”) varies among bootshops.

If you aren’t sure what toe or heel style you want, discuss the options with your bootmaker, he or she can help you make design choices that compliment one another. Custom boots aren’t only supposed to fit your feet, but your personality too…have some fun!

Folks who are new to cowboy boots are often confused by the label “roper.” What is a roper cowboy boot? How is it any different from a “regular” cowboy boot?

A “roper” is a low-heeled, almost flat-heeled cowboy boot. Most often it has a rounded toe…and usually shorter top height, maybe ten inches or so. Ropers are usually plain work boots, with very little stitching. Pull straps or pull holes are often their only decoration.

Justin was the boot company to give the roper its name, and the first boot company to mass produce the roper boot. Legend has it that up until the early 1950’s many of the rodeo calf-ropers were wearing baseball caps and tennis shoes in the arena. “The cap wouldn’t get in the way of the rope and the tennis shoes allowed them to jump off the horse and run real fast to catch the calf and throw and tie it in the fastest time possible.”

But, the Rodeo Cowboys Association didn’t think it was good for the “rodeo image” for their cowboys to be running around in tennis shoes. So they made a new rule that all contestants had to wear proper “cowboy attire” which included a western hat and cowboy boots.” (Source: Standard of the West: The Justin Story)

John Justin Sr. was approached by some old-time calf-ropers who wanted something different in their cowboy boots. After some trial and error, Justin adapted a Wellington boot pattern to fit their company’s flat-heeled 9315 military-style last (originally used to make boots for the ROTC cadet officers at Texas A&M; University.)

The roper has remained an inexpensive and popular work boot. Justin still makes several different ropers today…one with a traditional leather sole, and some others with new “performance materials” and polyurethane outsoles.

Many custom boot shops build roper-style boots…although rodeo calf-ropers don’t make up a big part of their business. (Rodeo guys spend all their money on entry fees and gasoline.)

Where are your custom cowboy boots? You ordered them over a year ago…and they’re still three months late?!

First off, I’ve never met a bootmaker who was behind by just one pair, so please don’t take it personally. Every boot shop, is going to have periodic problems with being short handed. I’m afraid this is nothing new, I came across a 1911 quote from Charles Hyer complaining about this very thing. For a one person shop it’s often life events like family births, deaths, illnesses…even holidays, or a brief trip out of town can get the orders off schedule . Even slightly bigger shops face these same interruptions, as well as the challenge of replacing skilled workers who want to retire.

The nature of custom work also makes it often difficult to estimate a completion date. Unusual leather colors, and exotic hides are ordered specially for each pair of boot, rarely is it material the bootmaker has on hand. Sometimes these materials are hard to locate and get in the shop. Suppliers are continually changing their stock. Bootmakers are also confronted by new boot designs, materials and hard to fit customers which are difficult to plan for.

All these things can have a cumulative effect, putting a bootmaker months or even a year behind.

A big part of custom bootmaking is the ongoing relationship you build with your bootmaker. Your bootmaker doesn’t like being late with your order, anymore than you do. Bootmakers make their living on repeat business.

A few calls to your bootshop (probably not more than once a month) may help keep your order on track, but treat the person on the other end of the phone kindly. This might be a bit metaphysical for you, but I think that part of what makes handmade boots special, is the care and personal energy that goes into making them. I think when the bootmaker is full of good will towards their customer it makes a difference in how the boot fits, looks and wears.

“To lose patience is to lose the battle.”–Mahatma Gandhi

When I was in Wichita Falls at a well-known western wear store called The Cow Lot, I asked “Bugger” (that’s what people call him)…What’s popular these days?

He showed me these funny looking “cowgirl boots” with a big lug sole and painted-on ostrich skin. Hmmmmm.

“Sellin’ these like crazy. The girls just gotta have ’em.”

“Really?” I said…kinda scrunching up my nose. “Why do you think that is?”

“Well…” he said. “I’ve been wearing boots for 50 years…and sometimes you just want something a little different.”

Bugger is a wise man…and he knows his western wear.

I can’t say I was a fan of those “FatBaby” boots I saw in Wichita Falls, but that was then, and this is now…and Ariat’s come out with something new.

Recently, I saw some Ariat Baby Bucks and I have to admit they were the best looking boots on the shelf…cowgirl-wise. (See more styles)

These boots have got some irony stitched into ’em …the round toes, rhinestone studs and heart-shaped top pulls show the urban influences of Doc Martens and my pretty pony.

These aren’t boot design hand-me-downs. They’re new and different, one could say…a little bit country, a little bit rock ‘n’ roll.

…and it’s true, the girls love ’em!

(For those of you who want to see the Ariat Baby Bucks for yourself…step into your nearest Boot Barn.)